Look Who it Was Random video

Fabulous Redo Rescue Part 2 of 3 Fluid Acrylic Traveling Ring Poured Artwork #3298-8.3.18

465 views · Published 24 August 2018 · 13:56 · Indexed 25 October 2026

Channel: Expressionist Fluid Art Studio Priscilla Batzell · 2018 · Howto & Style

Watch on YouTube

Part 1:   https://youtu.be/dqpgQn2IRLo
Part 3:   https://youtu.be/9vzyA4W687Y

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In Part 1 began by using an 18"x24" stretched canvas that begins as a number of traveling ring pours. In Part 2 I repeat all the same methods and torch. All the paints I use are acrylic paints mixed with additives to help them flow more easily. All my colors are stored and mixed in squeeze bottles for ease of use. I begin by adding black paint to the surface of the entire canvas using a large silicone spatula. This layer is useful to help the next paint added to move and spread more easily when the next colors are added to the surface. My colors are in a half of a milk carton and I pour them onto the center of the canvas in a looping "traveling" ring pour to begin. I nearly empty the first container and fill it again releasing more ribbons and paint from bottles into the composition. I add accent colors as I go using squeeze bottles. The canvas is tilted to flow the paint and an  "edge catcher" (a flexible but somewhat rigid transparent sheet of plastic salvaged from packaging) held to the side of the canvas. The edge catcher holds the pooled paint from escaping and is rocked and squeezed gently in place at the edge where it's being held (this covers the canvases edges). The canvas is tilted back in the opposite direction and the paint allowed to flow back into the artwork. I use a small silicone spatula to swipe areas and manipulate paint generally. I use a propane torch which is cautiously passed over the surface of the canvas to release any air in the paint that might result in bubbles forming while the artwork dries or leaving pockmarks if left to pop on their own. Warming the paint will also often encourage patterns to emerge because the paint in combination with the Floetrol used in my pouring mix encourages cells to form. Weeks go by, and I feel this needs  "fix" See Part 3. 

My "pouring" mixture or "recipe" is simple and starts with 2 parts (estimated) GAC800 from Golden added into any acrylic paint color 8 parts (amounts are always estimated). This starts the mixing process. Mix the paint and GAC thoroughly. Next, I add my mixed Floetrol and (half) DecoArt pouring medium. (Shake it first every time!) The truth is, lately, that's my go-to. I add the same (or more) ounces as the first two ingredients and mix everything thoroughly. The consistency is usually medium "body" weight, but other weights are usable with minor adjustments. 
 
To mix, if you use squeeze bottles as I do, add a marble and shake your paints every time before you use them. All my acrylic paints are mixed in advance and contained and stored in squeeze bottles. If you are not using squeeze bottles, I suggest using a container that has a lid. I have often used the 4oz size plastic deli containers, and the paint keeps for a long time in them, but you still will have to stir before using the mix again because the Floetrol and other flow agents will rise to the top between uses.  None of my acrylic paint has any added silicone. To create the pearlescent effects seen in most of my artworks, I use Golden's Iridescent pearl "Fine" added to colors. By "eye" until I am pleased with what I see. 
 
Every day I learn new things. I will never stop experimenting, and I am happy to share what I discover with you. 

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#3293 wet, shown in this video. 
 
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